Traveling in a van from the north of Germany to Portugal has been fascinating, challenging, and adventurous. I chose my route along the Atlantic Ocean coastline, the blue ocean guiding me like a trusted compass. I have done this road trip three times in total by now and have explored numerous incredible spots and stops.
Each journey along this path showed me a diversity of landscapes, from the rugged cliffs of Northern France to the endless beaches of Galicia and Portugal. One focus of my trips has been finding amazing waves to surf. This led me to some incredible places with parking spots right behind the dunes, a few walking steps away from the most beautiful and peaceful beaches.
Diving into not only the Atlantic Ocean almost every day, but into a different culture and cuisine with every other stop has been such a wonderful experience. I would eat traditional French pastries, try tapas in Spain and delicious fresh seafood in Portugal. Each day offered not just a change in scenery, but a whole new world of experiences, adventures and stories. This article features some of my favorite places that I have visited, either alone or with my friend or boyfriend on the road.
Note: Each of the three times I did this road trip I was accompanied by either a friend or my boyfriend. Some parts I also explored by myself. In this article I will switch between referring to only myself and the people accompanying me on the road. I wrote an article about my first time road-tripping in the van.
France: Fairy Tales, Crashing Waves and Croissants
I will start by talking about the best places I visited in France.
Mont Saint-Michel
Mont Saint-Michel made me feel like a princess in a Disney Movie, which is quite impressive when you have been on the road for about a week with a total count of one shower. On the other hand, it supposedly inspired the castle of Rapunzel’s parents in the movie Tangled, so I shouldn’t be too surprised.
One of the most striking features of Mont Saint-Michel is its stunning location. It is a beautiful medieval abbey on a rocky island. On low tide you can access Mont Saint-Michel by foot however with the high tide the Mont becomes surrounded by water, creating a majestic island rising from the sea.
We arrived in the afternoon in a parking spot “Parking du Bec d’Andaine” which is located 30 minutes north of Mont Saint-Michel. The parking lot is crowded during the day, filled with tourists and groups of school kids that walk to the castle on foot over the Wadden Sea.
With the setting sun, it quiets down and offers a great spot for an overnight stay. For us it was perfect to see the castle from afar in the setting sun. I loved seeing the castle from afar before visiting the island itself. To visit the castle you can walk from the parking spot to the island when the tide is low. Make sure to check the tide schedules before your visit, as the tides can affect access to the Mont.
What we did instead was drive thirty minutes to the designated parking lot by the island (12€ for a day) and take the free shuttle bus to the castle.
You walk across a bridge to the island. Seeing the Castle from the coast had been so picturesque but exploring the narrow, cobbled streets that wind up towards the abbey on our own was incredible. Strolling through the Medieval Village made us feel transported back in time.
We explored the Abbey and learned a bit about its history while admiring not only the architecture of the place but the marvellous view as well. The Abbey’s terrace offers a spectacular panoramic view of the surrounding bay. We would watch the groups of tourists walk over the disappearing Wadden Sea at low tide. Whether it’s the historical streets, the breath-taking views, or the unique tide phenomena, this island is truly enchanting. It definitely brought us a bit of magic.
La Rochelle
La Rochelle was one of the few cities we visited. It is known for its historic ports and beautiful old town. We enjoyed the contrast to our nature spots. For us it was the perfect city to spend a day in. It offers so many opportunities to shop, explore culture and try local cuisine. We parked somewhere in town and started walking without a plan.
First, we saw La Rochelle’s old harbor (Vieux Port), which the city is famous for. It is characterized by its medieval towers guarding the entrance – the Saint-Nicolas Tower, the Chain Tower, and the Lantern Tower. These towers are iconic symbols of the city’s rich maritime history. They became more impressive when we saw them lit up at night. We strolled through the charming streets of the town, stopping for postcards, coffee and ice cream.
La Rochelle is renowned for its well-preserved old town which is beautiful to walk through. On one square people were dancing under pink umbrellas hung up in the sky. It has countless cute cafes and restaurants. We specifically enjoyed looking through all the little shops filled with souvenirs, decorations, games, posters, and other cute items.
In the evening, after all our shopping, we found ourselves in a small but crowded alley where a band played in the streets. It felt like a small party, everyone singing and dancing in the streets. When the clock struck midnight we drove to a spot a bit further out town where we could park the van and sleep at night.
Beaches and Biarritz in the Southwest of France
The Southwest of France is home to some of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in France. There is the Grande Plage in Biarritz or the remote beaches of the Landes region, where you can sunbathe or people-watch. It is equally as popular for its surf spots, which is one of the main reasons I took my time exploring this region.
For surf enthusiasts particularly the Atlantic coast around Biarritz and Hossegor, is a must-visit. These spots are famous for their surf culture and host several international surfing competitions. The waves here cater to all levels, from beginners to pros.
Even if you’ve never stood on a surfboard, this is your time to try. My favorite spots include Soulac-sur-Mer, Plage Surveillée du Gurp, Cap de L’homy and the Plage des Océanides in Capbreton. I loved the incredible beaches and waves but also the possibility to park so close to the ocean. At some you can park right behind the dunes or under high pine trees, which are characteristic of this region. The coastline is dotted with expansive sandy beaches, and small seaside towns which gave me a sense of peacefulness. Maybe because the beaches weren’t overrun by tourists.
In summer the beaches are packed and it’s gets too hot for my personal preference. I found autumn and spring to be the perfect time to explore the Southwest of France. It isn’t as crowded as in but the weather is still mostly sunny. Even in mid September we could still sunbathe and surf in bikinis instead of wetsuits.
In conclusion, the Atlantic coast in the south west of France is an amazing destination to enjoy a stunning natural scenery, delicious food, and a vibrant surf scene. I specifically recommend visiting Cap De L’homy. It is a bit less crowded destination for those seeking peace, serene beaches and natural landscapes and is ideal for surfing, sunbathing, swimming, and enjoying magical sunsets.
If you’re looking for more of a city atmosphere, you should visit Biarritz. Biarritz feels like a small beach city. I loved walking around the streets, exploring the smaller shops for jewelry, surf clothes, records and souvenirs. My friend and I bought postcards. We wrote them while sitting in a cute cafe and enjoying a big brunch – a contrast to our usual van life breakfast.
The city’s many restaurants and bistros have a wide range of diverse food options. We strolled through the local food court, Halles de Biarritz, and bought small treats – croissants, macarons and quiche. We ate them in front of the picturesque harbor. The wide blue ocean creates a beautiful coastal scenery.
SPAIN: Endless Nature and Endless Smiles
Galicia
Galicia is my all time favorite road trip destination. Every time I drive from Portugal to Germany (or from Germany to Portugal) I make sure to spend a few days along this incredible coastline in the northwest of Spain. It offers many diverse hidden nature spots right by incredible beaches. Most of the times you can park right by the beach too.
I have woken up to serene sunrises, seen breathtaking sunsets, surfed empty line-ups and explored beautiful nature. Everything right next to my parked van. Galicia truly is a paradise for all beach and nature lovers.
You can find sand beaches hidden between rugged coastlines, tasty seafood and welcoming people, not to forget about the breathtaking night sky. I love exploring Galicia and can’t wait to be back soon, to surf, to sunbathe, to explore its nature.
Bilbao and Sopelana
Sopelana is still one of my favorite stops. We initially stayed here to take a day trip to Bilbao but stayed longer for the amazing surf and incredible views. I am not a huge fan of big cities and staying in a van in a city is rather inconvenient, that’s why we felt so lucky to find a parking lot in Sopelana, right by the beach. We drove into Bilbao one day to explore it and otherwise enjoyed the calm and beachy atmosphere of Sopelana.
When we drove to Bilbao, we parked somewhere in the outskirts and took the metro into town. Our first stop was, of course, the famous Guggenheim Museum. We admired the impressive architecture of the Museum as well as the two statues outside. Puppy is the world’s largest flower sculpture. A permanent installation created by the American artist Jeff Koons. In contrast to the beautiful flower arrangement you can find Maman, the monumental steel spider that is almost 9 meters tall.
Even though the admission prices are reasonable, we decided to spend our limited time in the sunny streets of Bilbao. We wandered through the old town’s charming streets.
The heart and soul of Bilbao, the Casco Viejo, offers a stark contrast to the modernity of the Guggenheim. In the Old Town we walked through its seven original streets (Las Siete Calles) and discovered charming boutiques, traditional Basque taverns (pintxos bars), and historic landmarks like the Santiago Cathedral and the Plaza Nueva. It was a great way to experience the city’s traditional culture and cuisine.
At Plaza Nueva we tried some pintxos (local tapas) which were delicious. You can get them at the many bars and taverns that are everywhere in the city. Another place to try pintxos is the Mercado de la Ribera where you can also buy fresh local products like cheese, wine or fish. We enjoyed strolling through Bilbao, absorbing its lively atmosphere and roaming around Casco Viejo.
I feel like we got to see some of the best parts of Bilbao in the short time that we visited. However, there’s lots of places that we didn’t get to see. On my list for next time is Cafe Iruna for the great food and beautiful historic tiled walls inside.
In contrast to the busy city we were grateful for the calm ambience of Sopelana. The parking lot is on the cliffs right by the beach. We had an amazing panoramic view of the blue ocean and surfers. During the day the beach and parking are packed so you have to be lucky with finding a spot but in the evening it quiets down a little.
We felt safe and met lots of other like-minded travelers. We spent our time laying on the beach, enjoying the sunshine, surfing, and skating a skate bowl on the cliffs.
I can recommend staying in Sopelana and visiting Bilbao if you’re looking for the perfect mix of city and beach.
Portugal: Small Fishing Towns, Ceramic Tiles and Waves
Porto, Portugal
Porto has an undeniable charm. I fall in love with this city a little more every time I visit. It is renowned for its colorful architecture, world-famous port wine, and a lively culinary scene. I do not recommend driving into the city with a van or motorhome. The streets are busy and narrow and some online reviews suggest that parking a van in town is not safe.
Instead, I like to park at one of the camping sites in the district of Madalena, which are quite popular even in the low season. I know that after a busy time exploring the city I can return to a safe campsite. There is a bus connection into the city center, I however prefer to take an Uber or Bolt which takes me directly to the Jardim do Morro. T
he small hill offers breathtaking views of the cityscape and gives a beautiful first impression of Porto. From there you can cross the Dom Luís I Bridge into the Ribeira District. The bridge is a symbol of the city’s industrial heritage. The Ribeira District, with its narrow, cobbled streets, colorful houses, and lively squares overlooking the Douro River, is quintessentially Porto.
I recommend just walking through and taking in the city’s vibrant atmosphere. It is my favorite way to explore any city.
Be prepared to walk a lot of stairs. The area is bustling with traditional restaurants, cafes, and bars where you can try local delicacies. I recommend doing a Port wine tasting and trying the Francesinha sandwich as well as a Pastel de Nata.
If you want to see some more sights you can visit the São Bento Railway Station for its azulejos (ceramic tiles), the Clérigos Tower as the city’s most iconic landmark or the Livraria Lello, which is ranked among the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Definitely stroll along the riverbank to take in the stunning views of the city.
Nazaré, Portugal
Nazaré, is a picturesque seaside town in Portugal, renowned for its majestic sea cliffs, expansive sandy beaches, and vibrant cultural heritage. Even though the town has a quaint charm and delicious seafood, that wasn’t what initially drew me to it. Instead I visited Nazaré for its world-famous big waves. The underwater Nazaré Canyon creates record-breaking swells that attract surfers from around the globe.
The big wave season is between October and March in which you can see waves that average about 15 meters (50 feet) high and if the conditions are exceptional even up to 24 meters (80 feet). Watching surfers navigate the monstrous waves is a such a special experience that’s both exhilarating and humbling. It is incredible to see.
When the waves are big and an event is on, there are big crowds of people watching. You can watch the spectacle from the beach, Praia do Norte, however the best place to observe is on Sítio da Nazaré. It is by the lighthouse – Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo, which you can visit the interior of throughout the year. It houses a small exhibition dedicated to the surf culture in Nazaré and the history of big wave surfing.
I found it very interesting to dive a little deeper into the background of the Nazaré big wave surfing. To summarize, Nazaré is definitely worth seeing. The beaches are beautiful and it’s a charming town to stroll through. If you’re looking for a bit of thrill make sure you time your visit according to the swell. That way you get to experience the colossal waves at Praia do Norte.
Ericeira, Portugal
Ericeira is easily my favorite destination, probably because I’ve spent the most amount of time here. It is known for being one of the few World Surfing Reserves, a testament to its exceptional waves and surf culture. It attracts surfers and tourists from all around the world. Regardless, I find that it doesn’t lose its traditional Portuguese charm.
It’s right by the ocean with numerous beautiful beaches and a vibrant social life in town. The old town is a labyrinth of cobbled streets, traditional white houses with blue trim, and quaint squares. Wandering through, you’ll discover unique shops, cafes, and seafood restaurants that serve fresh seafood dishes.
At Praia dos Pescadores, or Fisherman’s Beach, you can sometimes watch local fishermen launching their boats, maintaining the village’s long standing maritime traditions. Praia dos Pescadores is just one of the many incredible beaches all along the coastline. There are several famous surf spots, including Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or a beginner, the diverse surf spots offer conditions for all levels.
Even if you are not into surfing there are many other activities to try. You can skate, practice Yoga, try bouldering or climbing. Especially in summer there is a lively party scene to enjoy. It’s also a fantastic place for a city stroll, a nature walk, sunbathing, or simply soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and beautiful views of the Atlantic.
One note: While you can stay at numerous amazing hostels and hotels, it’s a bit less easy when trying to find an overnight parking spot with a van. I recommend the campsite in town or finding a parking spot a bit further along the coastline.
However, Ericeira is definitely worth visiting. It’s such a charming seaside village with unique attractions and activities. Whether you’re drawn in by the waves, the allure of traditional Portuguese village life, or the simple pleasure of exploring a beautiful coastal landscape, Ericeira is a memorable escape.
3000 km and a Pocket full of Seashells Later: A Conclusion
I have traveled up and down the coast with my van three times now. I know the last time wasn’t actually the last time as I’m already planning my next road trip. I love coming back to these places and exploring new ones. Every time is another unique experience full of adventures. I collect moments and memories as well as pockets full of seashells and sunshine.
My journeys from Germany to the shores of Portugal leave me in awe of the diversity and richness of the Atlantic Coast. Each destination, with its own history, culture, and nature, has shown me such unique beauty. From the majestic silhouette of Mont-Saint-Michel, to the endless beaches in the South of France, to the beauty of Galicia; from the cultural vibrancy of Bilbao and Sopelana, to the charm of Porto; and finally, the exhilarating waves of Nazaré and the surfer paradise of Ericeira.
This road trip along the Atlantic Coast is more than just a trip; it’s an invitation to discover the stories etched into the landscapes and cities of the coastline. I hope my stories can inspire you to embark on your own road trip adventure, whether it is the historical cities, the blue of the ocean, the exquisite cuisines, or the thrill of surfing that draws you.
See you on the road.
